An Unplanned Visit to the Museo del Prado in Madrid

4/17/2024

After the wonderful evening at the Madrid Ukulele Club and the subsequent open mic, some quieter days are now beginning before I travel to a festival in southwestern Trebujena with my Spanish friend Alicia. Today, I had originally planned a day trip to Toledo, a beautiful city near Madrid. However, fate is not on my side. The ticket purchase at the railway station is quite complicated, and then I miss my connection at Madrid Atocha station because my suburban train breaks down and stops in the middle of the tracks.

An Unexpected Museum Visit

When things finally get moving again, it’s too late for a day trip, so I decide instead to visit the world-famous “Museo del Prado”. Upon arrival, I wonder why there’s so little activity. Unlike the Louvre in Paris, I get to the ticket counter and into the museum without any waiting time. Later, I’ll find out why this is the case.

In Search of Goya’s Black Paintings

Alicia has recommended that I should definitely check out Francisco de Goya’s black paintings - her favorite pieces from the entire collection. Excited, I enter the museum, which was commissioned as an art gallery by Ferdinand VII and inaugurated in 1819. Today, the collection comprises more than 5,000 drawings and is quite impressive. I have my camera with me, but I’m reprimanded at the very first painting: No photos allowed here. All pictures can be viewed online on the website.

I spend a total of three hours in the museum, fascinated by Goya, Velázquez, and El Greco. I’m particularly impressed by the evolution of Francisco Goya’s works. A painter who underwent a development from light to darkness. Someone who was so influenced by war and illness that he wasn’t afraid to reflect the true situation in the country and the world in his paintings. In doing so, he criticized the state and the church - at a time when the Inquisition was still in power. In the attic of the museum, you can still see his earlier and more cheerful works. In the basement, however, it becomes clear how war, famine, and his own deafness after an unknown illness changed him.

The Black Paintings: A Window into Goya’s Soul

The black paintings are a highlight of this development. He painted these between 1819 and 1823, completely withdrawn and isolated, on the wallpaper of his two-story house near Madrid. It seemed to be his only way to process the fates of his life. The works were not intended for the public and were only removed from the walls by the new owner in 1874 and transferred to canvases. Many details were lost in the process. Nevertheless, I see the despair of the artist in the paintings and it makes me reflective. This despair is best seen in his most famous work “Saturn Devouring His Son”, which probably meant to depict that humanity stops at nothing to maintain power.

Here’s a video with detailed information about Goya’s life and the black paintings:

Other Impressive Artworks

Here are a few more paintings that I found impressive:

As I leave the museum around 6 PM, full of thoughts and inspirations, I see a gigantic queue in front of the museum. Only then do I realize that admission is free two hours before closing. I have to smile and shake my head. At least I had the opportunity to view the artworks in a relaxed and unhurried manner. Before I return to Alicia’s, I eat tortilla in a nearby café she recommended. At home, my host is not back yet. I sit down at her piano and play the few songs I still remember. For example, “Dancing in the moonlight” by King Harvest.

A Culinary and Musical End to the Day

When she joins me shortly after, we look for the sheet music for the piece. Alicia only needs 10 minutes to be able to play it perfectly. She’s just a pro. The same happens with “Just the two of us”. At 10:00 PM, her father calls us to the garden for dinner. Actually, I’m not hungry anymore. But there’s grilled asparagus with tomatoes, baked cheese, fresh gorgonzola from Italy… I simply can’t resist! We talk a lot about food and about Oktoberfest, which her father Alvero has already attended twice. I can’t express how happy I am to be able to stay with this wonderful family this week! We go to bed at 11:30 PM. A bit earlier than usual, but still very late by my standards. The day after tomorrow, the journey continues and new adventures await me!

All images are from the website of the Museo del Prado